Introduction
The Danube serves as a guiding thread to explore Upper Austria, one of Austria’s nine federated states. Along its meandering course, the river reflects green forests, rows of vineyards, and castles perched atop hills, offering a picturesque route ideal for camper or car journeys. Exploring this region promises numerous surprises, from the avant-garde city of Linz to monuments reminding us of humanity’s darkest moments and monasteries producing exquisite beer and wines. Despite its charms, Upper Austria remains relatively unknown to many visitors, yet it encapsulates much of what makes Austria a fantastic destination: a remarkable river, a rich musical heritage, classic and elegant cafes, medieval towns, well-preserved Augustinian abbeys, and spas.
Linz: Austria’s Ultravanguard
Linz, the capital of Upper Austria, often goes unnoticed by foreign tourists but holds immense significance for Austrians. The city epitomizes Austria’s technological prowess, boasting daring artistic installations, an emerging cultural scene, a cyber center, and a futuristic gallery. Recognized by UNESCO as a City of Digital Art since 2014, Linz juxtaposes its urban center with a charming old town characterized by Baroque architecture.
At the forefront of Linz’s technological innovation are the Ars Electronica Center’s state-of-the-art laboratories. Here, visitors can interact with robots, experiment with digital object animation, or embark on virtual journeys into outer space. Across the Danube, the renowned Lentos Art Museum showcases works by artists such as Warhol, Schiele, and Klimt within a spectacular glass and steel structure, illuminated spectacularly at night. Another essential avant-garde hub is the Landesgalerie, housed in a 19th-century building, exhibiting paintings from the 20th and 21st centuries alongside photographs and installations.
Street art flourishes in Linz, especially in the industrial facades of the Hafenviertel, where graffiti by artists like Roa, Lords, and Aryz adorn the walls. Guided tours, workshops, and cruises offer insight into these vibrant urban expressions.
Yet, Linz isn’t solely about modernity. The immense Mariendom, or New Cathedral, captivates with its neo-Gothic splendor, adorned with spires, flying buttresses, and intricate stained glass windows. Nearby, the Old Cathedral, or Alter Dom, stands as a testament to Linz’s history, with its twin towers dominating the city skyline. Linz Castle, witnessing centuries of history, offers panoramic views and treasures within its museum.
Linz’s Sweet Note: The Linzer Torte
Beyond its avant-garde façade, Linz is renowned for its culinary delights, notably the Linzer Torte, a classic recipe dating back to 1653. This layered tart, comprising hazelnuts, spices, and tart currant jam, rivals Vienna’s famous Sachertorte. Visitors can sample this delicacy at Café Jindrak, where over 100,000 units are produced annually according to the family recipe. For a taste of tradition, the k.u.k. Hofbäckerei Café, housed in a 1371 building, offers delightful Linzer Torte amidst a nostalgic ambiance.
Gourmets shouldn’t miss the Markthalle, housed in an apricot-colored former salt warehouse, offering a cornucopia of national produce from small producers, including gins, liqueurs, wines, cheeses, and meats.
Linz’s Bitter Note: Mauthausen
However, amidst Linz’s cultural and culinary delights lies a stark reminder of humanity’s darkest chapter: Mauthausen. This small town, located north of Linz along the Danube, was transformed by the Nazis into a concentration camp during World War II. Today, the Mauthausen Memorial stands as a poignant reminder of the atrocities committed here and in other nearby concentration camps. Visitors can explore the remains of the barracks, the haunting gas chambers, and reflect on this grim chapter in human history.
Imposing Baroque Abbeys: St. Florian and Kremsmünster
A short distance south of Linz lies St. Florian, home to one of Austria’s most extraordinary Augustinian abbeys dedicated to Saint Florian. Legend has it that Saint Florian, a Roman official turned Christian martyr, saved a town from fire with a single bucket of water. The abbey, dating back to the 9th century, boasts a stunning Baroque façade and opulent interiors adorned with stuccoes and frescoes. Of particular note are the 16 imperial rooms and the vast library housing over 150,000 volumes. The abbey’s crypt contains not only the tomb of composer Anton Bruckner but also the remains of 6,000 purported Romans, arranged eerily behind an iron grille.
Nearby, Kremsmünster beckons with its majestic Benedictine abbey, overlooking the fertile valley of Krems. Although originally constructed in the 8th century, the abbey underwent Baroque renovations in the 18th century. Visitors are enthralled by its richly decorated library and the Kaisersaal, or Emperor’s Hall, adorned with stuccoes and Flemish tapestries. The abbey church, a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, is adorned with exquisite stuccoes and frescoes.
Traunviertel and Steyr: A Rural Escape
Journeying through Upper Austria reveals idyllic landscapes and charming villages like Steyr, hailed by composer Franz Schubert as “incredibly charming.” Steyr’s cobblestone streets and Baroque houses epitomize the region’s beauty. The Schlosspark, a tranquil park surrounding Schloss Lamberg, a baroque palace at the confluence of the Enns and Steyr rivers, offers a serene escape. Visitors can explore Gothic and Baroque churches, adding to Steyr’s religious and artistic allure.
A short distance away lies Bad Hall, a sleepy spa town renowned for its Therme Mediterrana. These thermal baths, fed by iodine-rich springs, offer therapeutic relaxation amidst exotic gardens and aromatic landscapes. Bad Hall’s market hall, housed in a former salt warehouse, showcases regional specialties, including gins, liqueurs, wines, cheeses, and meats.
Kalkalpen National Park: Pristine Wilderness
Venturing southward leads to Kalkalpen National Park, a secluded paradise of rugged limestone mountains, deep valleys, and dense forests. Encompassing 208 square kilometers, it’s Austria’s second-largest national park. Its pristine landscapes, home to rare species like the golden eagle and the lynx, offer a haven for hikers, cyclists, climbers, and skiers.
Mühlviertel: Land of Fine Beers
Heading north of Linz, Mühlviertel beckons with its picturesque landscapes dotted with white farmhouses. Freistadt, one of the region’s historic gems, boasts well-preserved fortifications and a vibrant brewing tradition. Visitors can explore the town’s baroque center and savor locally brewed beer, reflecting a communal ownership model dating back to 1777.
Innviertel: Bordering Bavaria
Innviertel, one of Upper Austria’s four historic regions, charms visitors with its fertile landscapes and the meandering Inn River. Schärding, nestled along the Inn, captivates with
its baroque architecture and Silberzeile, or “Silver Line,” adorned with ornate facades. Nearby Engelhartszell is renowned for Stift Engelszell, one of only eight certified Trappist breweries worldwide. Visitors can sample monk-brewed beers amidst the abbey’s rococo splendor.
Conclusion
Upper Austria, with its diverse landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and culinary delights, offers an enchanting journey along the Danube. From the avant-garde allure of Linz to the tranquil beauty of rural villages and the solemn reminders of history, this region captivates with its charm and authenticity, inviting visitors to explore its hidden treasures and savor its unique experiences.